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AnyTone 868 or 878...

I should add, don't feel stupid because you missed something. It happens. You did a wise thing asking for help, and resolved your issue so you have a fully functional station to the level you desire. Sent from my SM-S767VL using Tapatalk

You could always set up a laptop with the other one for field day.......

https://hamgear.wordpress.com/downloads/ There is a download on this page to program your radio. If you have chirp, you could also try the bf 888 programming. Hope this helps. Sent from my SM-S767VL using Tapatalk

http://radiomanual.info/schemi/ACC_packet/West_Mountain_Radio_RIGblaster_Plus_user_K1UHF.pdf This should set you up if you still need it, as far as having two, I'm always open to donations :) it sounds like you might be set. I am glad for you. Sent from my SM-S767VL using Tapatalk

Turns out, it was a problem with the serial keying jumper block! I overlooked that part of the manual. I feel real stupid now, cuz now I have two Rigblasters for no good reason...:nonchalance:

Hmm... Maybe that is the problem, could you send me the link to the digram?

You may already have this, but a double check for cable routing never hurts... Also make sure that the internal jumpers are set for your mic pin layout. If you need the diagrams for that let me know. Sent from my SM-S767VL using Tapatalk

Is it a minor zap that you can sometimes hear but is too small to make your muscles contract, or does it make your arm twitch? Static electricity IS one possibility, especially during dry weather. Shocks from static electricity work because the body acts like a capacitor plate building up and holding like charges until you come in contact with something of a different static potential (like something metal, whether its grounded or not). It is important (in this respect) to ground the equipment so that static buildup or discharge through the case doesn't have to go through those precious mosfets or cmos cjips in the equipment to find some way out. Something as low as 20 volts, which you would never hear or feel discharging, is enough to punch through the microscopic layer of silicon dioxide between the gate and substrate destroying the mosfet device. For the discharge of static electricity, grounding the equipment will not stop you from getting zapped, but it will save your equipment if that zap has...

The duct work is all within the unit, each unit has it's own AC so nothing leads back to a centralized AHU or boiler. It's like a walking around the house w/ socks across carpet and touching something metal, just a quick shock, no buzz. Like static out of the dryer.

Thanks Brandon, and yes, sometimes things haven't been done right!

Define "slight shock". Like a DC discharge or an AC buzz? Just use the outlet ground as Ots says, I definitely second that. Just hope you can trust the guy who wired the apartment! The balcony and concrete don't conduct enough to be useful for any more than static buildup. Do not ground to the ventilation system. Many times those have rubber joints for vibration dampening or wire-reinforced mylar ducting that can't conduct more than static. If its not grounded all the way, you could put your voltage problem in some kids room down the hall. Unfortunately, there are many unprofessional "professionals" with a license to practice their misunderstood shortcuts around the NEC on places like your apartment. Case in point, those darn outlets where you just cram the wire in the back as opposed to wrapping it around the screw. Those push-in connections are made with a thin metal catch tab to hold the wire in and press it against a metal surface. This allows for movement on a contact with already-limited...

Neutral would never be used for case grounding - that's what the third wire is for. GFCI's would be localized to the individual apartment's outlets. It's the apartment complex circuit breakers that would trip that would cause an outage in multiple units, but the GFCI's should prevent that from happening. Only the circuit in the GFCI in the individual outlet would be tripped in case of a fault. Again, the best advice is from the ARRL publications and they are perfectly clear on this.

The radiator or duct work will eventually lead back to an AHU or to a boiler. Both will be metal and grounded. I wouldn't use the grounds or neutral of a 110v plug. When a gfci trips it is because of a short from the hot wire to ground. You have 10 floors of people that could cause a short or monkey around with their ground and energize your radio. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

There are other types of grounding situations where it wouldn't be the right way to go, you're right. But the ground wire on a three prong plug is for case grounding which is what you're looking for. See section 28.1.5 of the ARRL Handbook. Or section 3.3 of ARRL Grounding and Bonding.

Let me try to find this in my grounding and bonding book from ARRL, but I've also had other people tell me it's not the same thing, though I could be wrong. If I could use it and it were safe, I'd like that to be the case as it sounds like it's my best option. Also, if this is ok, it sounds like what I need is an earth bonding plug from the bus bar to a socket? Does it go by another name? Haven't really found the exact one yet.

"I live on the 10th floor of a high-rise and have nothing to attach it to. No incoming water pipe (all pvc), no A/C copper lines, and if I understand this correctly, I can't use the ground in a 120v electrical socket either (green wire?)." Why not? That is for case grounding to earth. If the outlets have the third ground wire any appliance with a three prong plug will have its chassis ground going there. My power supply has the three wires and it's the kind with extra output terminals for L and N, and I use the ground wire terminal as my ground for all my equipment. Cheers, Bill

So, your saying it just needs to be a large piece of metal? Basically everything in my unit is it's own little island. All incoming and outgoing are pvc of some sort. If that's the case, I do have a 40 ft. steel balcony railing that is bolted into the concrete floor. Would that be ok? This is also the railing I hang my antennas off of.

You have HVAC of some sort? Ground to a radiator? If you have an forced air you could ground to the ductwork. If it's a rental unit you could use metal tape to tape a ground wire to the ductwork inside a vent cover. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I just found the picture. OMG that is beautiful. I would give a fortune to have that. But you are too far away. Bought new you are talking about at least $5000 for the antennas, (there are at least 6 antennas there, looks like coverage for every HAM band known to man) $3000 for the tower, and I dont know how much for the rotor. Why doesnt a house like that come up for sale where I am? I would sell my wife for that setup. No one put that up without a way to get the antennas down. You must be missing something. Call the local ham club. The person that put that up was well known in the HAM community, I guarantee it.

I think it's one of the Mosley antennas. Very nice and known for longevity. I have a Junior model 3 bander with a 2 band add-on. Where I live, there would be no problem getting help from the local club. No cost, and the job would be done safely with proper equipment. Somebody would love to have that antenna. Also, I see towers and antennas on Craigslist sometimes, free or cheap. http://www.mosley-electronics.com/high_power_multi.html

A "dose of salts" might be more effective.

Thank you both for your perceptions and opinions! I am trying your suggestions. Will report results, once I'm sure I can give an accurate report! Thanks! 73 W7ORW