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  • OH8GAD's Avatar
    Today, 14:45
    For satellite and space comms, both helical antenna and crossed dipoles are common. They offer directional gain and don't suffer from fading due to polarisation shifts. regards, Rob
    1 replies | 60 view(s)
  • essbee's Avatar
    Today, 09:27
    The Bluetooth dongle is specific to the transceiver make and model. I found mine on ebay.
    4 replies | 153 view(s)
  • grandpasoldstuff's Avatar
    Today, 05:59
    Antenna is down will be removing the base and saving mount this weekend with jack hammer and user "essbee"'s advise. Ready to pick up 5/28. Rotational receiver/ transmitter controller still works. Winches still work. Basically intact except a nut and washer that ran away into the grass. Available for free to anyone who is willing to pick it up.
    10 replies | 246 view(s)
  • AllDigital's Avatar
    Today, 05:49
    Hello HRF, First time post, so thank you and appreciation, ahead of time, to the moderators and old timers for your community. My son and I do a lot of high altitude amateur and experimental rocketry. Some of our launches go 50K+ feet and we support some university student groups that have launches > 100K feet. The past six months we've pivoted to building a radio telemetry system to track all aspects of the flight on the way up and down. This is arduino based and includes GPS, barometers, accelerometers, gyroscopes, temperature gauges, event detection, data logging to SD cards, and radio transmission back down to a base station, during all phases of the flight. We are using 2W serial TTL radios on the 70cm band (435.92 Mhz to be exact). At this point, we have everything working perfect, using a Yagi on the base station and testing with a half-wave inverted Vee antenna on the rocket rig. We did a local "mountain top to base" test and we are getting reliable data/telemetry transmission at 10 miles...
    1 replies | 60 view(s)
  • travis.farmer's Avatar
    Yesterday, 21:25
    i bought a Kenwood TH-K20a a little while back to replace my seemingly un-fixable (by me) former handheld. As my license is still pending, i have the "tx inhibit" function enabled. so, my comparison is RX only, between the stock antenna, and a HYS NA-771 VHF/UHF. test location is from where i am working, siding a camp on Porter Lake, New Vinyard, Maine, USA. day one, Stock antenna: i was able to pick up one repeater, KQ1L (Sugarloaf Mt, 146.970). day two, HYS antenna: I was able to pick up recognizable chatter from KQ1L (Sugarloaf Mt, 146.970), KQ1L (Streaked Mt, 146.880), and KY1C (Farmington, 147.180). the locations provided may not be known to those not from this area, but with the many hills and mountains in between, i found the difference to be impressive. ~Travis
    0 replies | 81 view(s)
  • Sixmeters's Avatar
    Yesterday, 17:22
    Sixmeters replied to a thread Long wire question in Antennas
    Reviews for this radio were POOR at best!-- https://www.eham.net/reviews/detail/7256
    4 replies | 114 view(s)
  • Sixmeters's Avatar
    Yesterday, 17:20
    Sixmeters replied to a thread Long wire question in Antennas
    What about using the ARRL Antenna manual or The ARRL Radio Amateur Handbook. There is free link available online.. A Long Wire antenna would be several wavelength long - I doubt if you have the real estate to put up something like that.. Focus on building some type of dipole antenna, feed it directly with 75 ohm coax. No need for a Balun for a receive antenna..
    4 replies | 114 view(s)
  • KI6UVE's Avatar
    Yesterday, 17:15
    I've got a Yaesu FT-817 and a PSK digital modem. When the modem is connected to the radio via 6 pin din data cable, I get a repetitive clicking every 3 seconds. Stops immediately when I disconnect the modem. It only happens when connected to my FT-817, not happening when connected to FT-991 or FT-857. I've tinkered with baud rate settings but cannot seem to figure out what is causing it. Any suggestion??? Thanks, Hans/KI6UVE
    0 replies | 49 view(s)
  • Sixmeters's Avatar
    Yesterday, 16:54
    Not really sure what the rules are in Canada, but as far as I know, there is no licensed operations using FM type emissions on any frequency between 500 khz and 1.8 Mhz. Sounds like you are trying to make some sort of boot-leg transmitter for AM broadcast commercial radio. The problem is not the SWR meter, but the necessary length of the antenna needed to work these frequencies. Might I suggest that you first start out with an old ARRL Handbook - here is a good example.. https://archive.org/details/RadioAmateurHandbook1976
    2 replies | 97 view(s)
  • 5B4AJB's Avatar
    Yesterday, 07:08
    5B4AJB replied to a thread SWR meter newbie question. in Antennas
    You mean between the transmitter and dummy load? Any C.B. type should give you a close enough reading...
    2 replies | 97 view(s)
  • jpdesroc's Avatar
    Mon 21st May 2018, 23:06
    Hi everybody, Being a tech in the audio domain for years I'm new at RF stuff and want to do some experiments with snall AM and FM transmitters (5w max). Doing some power tests with a small homebrew 5w AM RF amplifer I need a SWR meter between a test antenna and the amp output that would cover 500khz to 1.8Mhz (AM band) but cannot find any for sale on the web.. The only available ones are for CB's or higher frequencies like FM.. Can you help me to find a source for this type of SWR meter ?
    2 replies | 97 view(s)
  • Obed's Avatar
    Mon 21st May 2018, 19:38
    I have had a few issues over the years with neighbors, the snap on ferrite and low pass filter took care of them all. Well, all except one, I had one neighbor that said I was getting into his phone line, even when my stuff was turned off... never found a solution for that one.
    4 replies | 95 view(s)
  • AndyG0CCX's Avatar
    Mon 21st May 2018, 18:56
    I have had only one case of RF getting into a neighbour's equipment. HF or VHF, low or high power, made no difference. So, like the OP, I said I'd get to the bottom of things. Just to amuse you, here's what I found. AM radio - no antenna at all. FM radio - "T" type ribbon antenna, hanging from the ceiling - only one wire connected to receiver TV - co-ax from TV set only had the inner core connected, braid not connected at either end. Up in the loft, the said inner conductor was connected to the boom of the TV antenna. Now, we live less than 2km from the transmitter for TV and FM radio, and it's line of sight. The TV will work just fine with no antenna at all plugged in, so it's perhaps no surprise that his lash up job worked! These issues were duly fixed for him, but although the RFI was reduced, it was still there. Chokes and HPFs were installed but the one thing that really worked on HF was a low pass filter installed as just described. On 2m, a band pass filter instead.
    4 replies | 95 view(s)
  • AndyG0CCX's Avatar
    Mon 21st May 2018, 18:53
    I have had only one case of RF getting into a neighbour's equipment. HF or VHF, low or high power, made no difference. So, like the OP, I said I'd get to the bottom of things. Just to amuse you, here's what I found. AM radio - no antenna at all. FM radio - "T" type ribbon antenna, hanging from the ceiling - only one wire connected to receiver TV - co-ax from TV set only had the inner core connected, braid not connected at either end. Up in the loft, the said inner conductor was connected to the boom of the TV antenna. Now, we live less than 2km from the transmitter for TV and FM radio, and it's line of sight. The TV will work just fine with no antenna at all plugged in, so it's perhaps no surprise that his lash up job worked! These issues were duly fixed for him, but although the RFI was reduced, it was still there. Chokes and HPFs were installed but the one thing that really worked on HF was a low pass filter installed as just described. On 2m, a band pass filter instead.
    4 replies | 95 view(s)
  • 5B4AJB's Avatar
    Mon 21st May 2018, 17:29
    Did you try snap-on chokes on the AC input cable? sounds like the problem is on the power supply. A low pass filter straight on the back of the transceiver usually helps...
    4 replies | 95 view(s)
  • paulears's Avatar
    Mon 21st May 2018, 15:29
    For headphones, I'd be running a log pot with much lower than 100K rating - because the inout and output impedances are both low - the amp will probably be 8 Ohms or so, and the typical headphone probably 50Ohms or so. There are a few lower impedance ones still about, but with so many battery devices out there now, higher impedance ones are more useful. The 100K pot would do nothing until the very last bit of the turn. However you are feeding quite a few Watts of power in, and the headphones at normal volume levels will manage to use above a Watt or so - so a half Watt pot has to dissipate the heat - which it probably will, as we're talking about music and peak current, not DC voltages, or big cone thrusting movements. Pop into your local electronics store or do an online order and buy a couple and try them out and see if they do what you need. A few people insist an inline resistance of about 20Ohms is handy for preventing too much current flowing, even with the pot on full - probably worth it if your TV...
    1 replies | 119 view(s)
  • n4trc's Avatar
    Mon 21st May 2018, 15:05
    delete delete
    1 replies | 119 view(s)
  • W5DXP's Avatar
    Mon 21st May 2018, 13:25
    W5DXP replied to a thread Long wire question in Antennas
    Couldn't find any sensitivity or dynamic range specifications for that radio on the internet. Apparently front end overload and intermod are problems. You may need less antenna rather than more.
    4 replies | 114 view(s)
  • essbee's Avatar
    Mon 21st May 2018, 12:30
    Before the Bluetooth dongle, I was successfully using HRD with the interface cable between laptop and transceiver with these settings; Speed 38400 CTS = Off DTR = Off RTS = Off My COM Port was COM3, of course your's might be different. When I replaced the cable with the Bluetooth dongle, all I did was pair the laptop to the dongle. I don't remember needing to do anything in HRD for Bluetooth to work.
    4 replies | 153 view(s)
  • 5B4AJB's Avatar
    Mon 21st May 2018, 12:29
    5B4AJB replied to a thread Long wire question in Antennas
    I would try it without the balun and use a simple ATU. Your mileage may vary (as with a lot of antenna-type things)! Long wires tend to be very noisy antennas, but, keep it away from objects and it should be OK. I recommend about 2 feet of insulator at either end of the wire (fishing line etc) before it gets tied off. Erect it without the balun and test its performance, if you find it doesn't do what you need, then fit the balun...
    4 replies | 114 view(s)
  • Sudden's Avatar
    Mon 21st May 2018, 11:07
    Hi essbee, Thanks for the reply. What settings do you use in the HRD program?
    4 replies | 153 view(s)
  • essbee's Avatar
    Mon 21st May 2018, 10:58
    I have a FT-857 that I operate in a camper. The unit itself is mounted in the camper, and I use the remote head either inside or outside. The dongle just eliminates the cable so that my laptop can go anywhere within bluetooth range with no wires at all. I then use all the features of HRD on my laptop - cluster, logging, QRZ lookup, etc.
    4 replies | 153 view(s)
  • grandpasoldstuff's Avatar
    Mon 21st May 2018, 07:00
    Antenna mast is down. Was not complicated to to disassemble. They really don't make things like they used too. Simple and built to last. Almost no rust on nuts and bolts very easy to remove. Found out how to use the Transmit/receive directional control.. that still amazingly worked perfectly. Was able to lower antenna lay down remove elements rotate 180 degrees then remove other 2 elements. Removed the mast pole from base. Base pole is still stuck in the concrete as rust and corrosion would not let it slide out of the foundation collar. Poured a bunch of liquid wrench on it ill try to remove next Sunday. I will use, users "essbee" suggestion to break the concrete and salvage the collar and base pole. So in the end fully intact 35 foot mast with direction controller, winch for raising and well over 100 feet of wire with connectors. Went into the ham shack and disconnected all wires and pulled them out intact. I would really hate to see this antenna go to a scrap yard. Please let everyone you know...
    10 replies | 246 view(s)
  • grandpasoldstuff's Avatar
    Mon 21st May 2018, 06:46
    Will definitely try this method
    10 replies | 246 view(s)
  • N3QIG's Avatar
    Sun 20th May 2018, 23:20
    So here’s my situation… The other day I was chatting with my neighbor who mentioned that he can hear my ham radio transmissions through his Sony STR-DH770 surround sound unit. Not wanting to cause any problems, I offered to help, and here are some facts I’ve found to date…. 1. The radio sounds/RFI (Radio Freq. Interference) come through all speakers; light and muffled, but there. 2. My ham radio was tested here on 7.233 MHz. 3. RFI was not significantly different from 800W down to 400W. 4. The distance from the nearest part of my end-fed Zepp to the Sony unit is about 60 feet. 5. The sounds are present only when his surround sound unit is ON. 6. Given #5 I assumed the RFI (Radio Freq. Interference) was entering his unit directly, and was being sent to the speakers as it would any signal input. 7. Even though I had the assumption outlined in #6, I placed Snap-On ferrite chokes on all speaker wires as they exited the main unit, placed a choke on the HDMI line to TV, plus did several wraps of the AC...
    4 replies | 95 view(s)
  • Sudden's Avatar
    Sun 20th May 2018, 19:23
    Hi, Has anyone used Ham Radio Delux with Bluetooth. Just because it looked interesting I bought a Bluetooth dongle to work with my FT-897 and apart from it pairs with my phone and both computers. What else can I get it to do?
    4 replies | 153 view(s)
  • Busa's Avatar
    Sun 20th May 2018, 16:09
    Busa started a thread Long wire question in Antennas
    Hi guys, new here with some questions, after checking around this forum I noticed there is quite a world of combined experience from all members sooooo here we go. Please note that I am quite new to shortwave antennas. And for listening purposes I try to build one, when I was very young I used to listen to shortwave with a old Russian transistor radio VEF 206 and like it a lot but now I have the shortwave listening bug again and have a few questions. I plan to run a 80 ft 14ga insulated copper stranded wire a couple of feet over a privacy wooden fence (I reside in a HOA subdivision) so I can’t go too high, and the main question I have is if I could continue the same long wire straight after tied up to the porcelain insulator (whitout cutting it) to the a 9:1 balun I have or if I should cut the wire after attached to the porcelain insulator and splice the long wire a few feet from the porcelain insulator and wrap and solder de lead wire to run it down to the balun? I don’t know if there is a benefit to this...
    4 replies | 114 view(s)
  • Archtop67's Avatar
    Sun 20th May 2018, 15:43
    what would you consider short? its not too expensive so if I got a couple years, that would be fine... as Ill probably want to upgrade or change something before then anyway....
    4 replies | 140 view(s)
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